I’ve put a series of photos at the end of all these blurbs, fast forward if you don’t need my lengthy words in your head. (ps, there are tons of photos!)

There is a history with this great ride, and if I didn’t quickly mention some of it, I’d be disrespecting the trail. Do note: This is my very brief summary, Wikipedia has the full breakdown, and you should read it because I’ve missed out on lots of bits.

The Old Ghost Road History – Doug Summary:

The Old Ghost Road started as a Dray Road back in the mid-late 1800s when the West Coast Gold Rush was a thing in Lyell. This provided the miners with access to mines and gold towns in-land towards Lyell Saddle. (like in the mountains access in-land, way back in 1865 with a Horse and cart and the road would have been just mud)

Strangely enough, Seddonville (aka, 85kms away) also had a dray road but along the Mokihinui River. In 1886, a survey was undertaken to connect these roads from both sides but was lost over time and wasn’t connected. In 1929 the Murchison Earthquake (a 6.7+) pretty much mucked everything up along each of the roads inflicting lots of damage, rendering parts impassable.

Fast forward to 2007, a tramping route was proposed along the Mokihinui Gorge. The proposed way was dropped due to Meridian Energy’s having a dam proposal that happened to be in the mix. The 1886 Survey was rediscovered and looked at by key members of the Mokihinui-Lyell Backcountry Trust, and Lyell Saddle proposed for a Heli landing area and a Hutt to be built. This came together in 2008 -2009 (which also included lengthly delays)

In late 2009, The New Zealand Cycling Trail announced it had $50m funding for projects. It wasn’t expected that the tramping/cycling route would be considered as they were up against towns and councils for cycling developments. Still, the Mokihinui-Lyell Backcountry Trust made submissions and was successful for part of the Fund. Which in its self is really amazing. (Plus funds from our sources)

Fast forward to today (which is March 2020), the track is up and running connected between Lyell and Seddonville for Trampers, Runners (Crazy Runners) and Cyclists to venture across. No road bikes though, its not that type of party.

To Sum up the efforts made by the Trust and connected people, Bloody Good Job. And thanks.

Read the full article here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Ghost_Road.

Also, check out the Old Ghost Road Website for info for Trampers and Riders.

Bike packing The Old Ghost Road

Firstly, everyone that we seemed to talk to indicated that the track had elements of danger described as sheer drops to certain death and sections that were unrideable on the side of cliff faces.

About 200mtrs from Heavens Door which is around 1200 meters above sea level

Personally, after experiencing the whole track. It is mostly ridable; some sections are under maintenance, likely caused by the forever-changing landscape. Yes, there are sheer drops but, there are also safety barriers and only stupidity would send you over. On the tight switchbacks (that turn back on themselves), if you are not game to ride down them, walk instead. Besides it is also a tramping track, and we even came across a Tramping couple with a 11wk old baby (yes I shit you not) and a 4 year old Daughter (who I was told by her father, had now stayed in 100 Huts) Simply put, What the Fuck!.

We booked the Huts a year in advance, which determined the dates for the trip (Feb 28, Mar 1, 2 & 3). Got a Personal Locator Beacon from Mac Pac in Wanaka a day before and hit the trail.(Never used it, cost $40)

By hit the trail, I really mean it was like a 12 hour drive to get there first + an overnight in Greymouth + 1 1/2 hr drive to the start of the track @ Lyell, then we had to pack the bikes (add another 45 mins)

Debbie packing the Giant up, Chrissy lending a hand

My bike, sort of coming together with all its junk still to add (and carry)

Jas, adding the finishing touches to his 2015 FatBoy.

Strangely enough, Phil with his 2019 Epic Evo looked ready to go, but was still last to finish packing. Actually where was Phil at this point… AWOL.

Chrissy, riding a Specialised FSR Full Carbon. Even loaded it was bloody light

Bike Packed and Ready to go. Jas kissing the ground good bye. (we think)

Our Fitness / on the Bike Prep
Before we did the Ghost Road, the fitness benchmark some of us set for ourselves, was to be able to ride comfortably 40km in a standard MTB ride, either track or road. This was more about having time in the saddle than developing single-track skills.
There was one 70km ride (Gore to Invercargill) and several 30km + rides done over about 3 – 5 months prior. Thats it, no other special bike training.

How the Fat Boy went.
Really well. As most fat bike riders know, you can almost ride over anything.
I had 8psi front/rear that absorbed all the rocks, dips, and bumps thrown at me.

Nothing fell off, while smashing it down the tracks

My Bike Specs (for those that care)
SRAM 12 Speed, 11 to 50, 34 T Crank, Raceface BB. Fancy Rainbow Chain!
SRAM grip shift (yeah, old School!), and 4-pot brakes from a Giant Trance (I think, but who needs brakes)
Thomson Masterpiece seat post, Salsa Handlebars.
MTB Frame is Alloy, Carbon front fork. 26″ Wheels with Carbon Rims, 4.6″ Tyres, tubeless setup. DT Swiss Hubs

My bikes weight is 15kgs unloaded.
I carried on the bike 10.5kg of Bags and Gear (Food, clothes, old school camera, electronics, and some bike fix it tools)
and I Weigh around 85kg

Two of our party were riding Fat bikes, 3 were riding “skinny wheeled bikes,” and the last two joining us were on e-bikes, but they only came into the last Hut we stayed at from the Seddonville side to spend the night and ride out with us.

Our group of 5 who rode the whole track, had no mechanicals, but one of 2 e-bikes that came in from Seddonville to meet us at the last Hutt got a puncture on the way out and the other e-bike, its chain got jammed almost at the end of the track.

Side note: Is the full trail suited to e-bikes?. Yes, providing your e-bike is an actual Mountain Bike and not a Casual Road E-bike. Plus, you need to be able to manage the weight of your bike, especially down the Skyline Ridge Steps.

My Gear Prep.
The best thing is to be prepared for any type of Weather.
– even so, the only thing I didn’t have with me was water proof pants.

The first day of the ride was sunny, and then the last two had some heavy rain. Weather forecast reports in the area before riding stated that there would be some sun / rain. However, in the mountain / Forrest / wilderness, it is merely unpredictable.

My Gear Packing list.

Items that I didn’t end up using were

1. Long Sleeve Jersey
2. Thermal top
3. Thermal leggings
4. 1 x Pair of Shorts
5. 2 Ltr foldable water bottle

Which it did manage to get squashed into

A quick blurb on: Trampers, Bikers, and track Etiquette.

We came across many walkers on the track and also some bikers. Everyone is friendly and respectful to and of each other. We did find that first to the Hut seemed to claim ownership of the Hut in general. (even though no one is in charge)

We meet our first lot of Guided Tours Walkers at Lyell Saddle Hutt.
The Tour Guides were from Southern Wilderness NZ Ltd and were really friendly and accommodating. (One, even joining us in a game of cards and sharing their coffee with us. https://www.southernwilderness.com

Unfortunately, the other tour guide who had walkers at the last two huts was not so bike-people-friendly, and she pretty much cold-shouldered us at each Hut, which was a shame because her walking group people were fine and welcoming.
Quite the opposite to the previous Tour Guides from Southern Wilderness , this one worked for KAHURANGI GUIDED WALKS, her profile states she is a hospitality super star, we just thought she was a snobby bitch.

Shout out to Ruff and Tumble Lodge.
Right next door to the end of our GhostRoad ride (Seddonville side) is the Ruff and Tumble Lodge.
Make sure you go there. (We should have booked the lodge to stay at the end)
I asked to wash my bike with their hose, no problem. Then I was offered a shower, no money required up front, they just gave me a towel and said, come up for Food and Refreshments when ready.
Outdoor shower with Hot water, Shampoo, and Conditor ready for you!
In their lodge, the fire was on, Coffee ready to pour, Ciders cold, and they made me a Veg Pizza + Free Wifi or you could use their phone to call (no cell phone coverage on any network here)
https://roughandtumble.co.nz
Worth it

My Ghost Road Quick Summary.

Instead of going into full “Doug paragraph detail” of every leg of the trip, I will post photos below with some captions.
So what did I think?
I could give you quick fancy descriptive words of how incredible everything was, but that wouldn’t do it justice. It would be best if you went and tramped or biked it so you can see for yourself.
Photos, Video and even words can’t capture the authentic experience that being there does. If you have a base level of fitness, you can do it; just be prepared, geared up, and book the huts well in advance. (unless you want to tent it #tent=hardcore)

PHOTO TIME!

DAY ONE

At the start, pretending to pose for photos

The Start of the Old Ghost Road from Lyell End, are these Steps that lead onto a swing bridge. Then you start biking up the climbs

This is a 18km bike event, going from around 91m to 880 meters above sea level

It’s all smiles at the start of the ride

About 4kms in and Froning takes a photo of the Photographer.

This is what you get when you take a photo of me. My ride Top isn’t normally like that!

Lunch stop, we roughly about 4 -5kms in and we have cell phone coverage

Debbie, Arriving @ Lyell Saddle Hutt at the 18km Mark

Chrissy, Arriving @ Lyell Saddle Hutt at the 18km Mark

This photo looked out from the Main common Hutt, where the guided walking group was staying. The Small Hutt top right is where we slept (one of the private huts, just for sleeping in) but below that, with the solar panel on its roof, is the Toilets. Which are not always a good topic to talk about, but I have to tell you. They are composting toilets, and they don’t smell. All the Toilets in the Hutts along the way are better than the toilets you find at Picnic Areas along state highways. Funny that! Huts have no power but come equipped with Gas and full cooking facilities (pots, cups, pans and knives, and forks)

18kms down, time for unpacking and food.

DAY TWO

PART ONE

It rained in the early morning so that meant WET WEATHER gear time.

Because of the Keas, you have to strip down your bike and then reload it the next day. That also meant taking off the bike bags and refitting them

Day two starts with a the first part of the ride to Ghost Lake, 12kms including UpHills

Somewhere between Lyell Saddle Hut and Ghost Lake, maybe 20kms in?

Just after the Top Camp Shelter, on the way to Heavens Door.

It was overcast and rainy with sections that were baked in sun and looked great to ride.

The ride starts out slow enough, riding up a smaller hill, then when you get to and come over the top, there is a small hut to gather your thoughts, and then you come across this type of track. I guess the Safety fences are for bike Photo Ops. This leads up to Heavens Door.

Quite a track to ride, especially when you can see the side of the mountain (that you can fall down)

The Weather had clouded in, but the rain had stopped. Over the edge is a big drop down a mountainside. The scenery was pretty fantastic. It was a bit cold up here.

This is at Heavens Door. Where some of our friends who do crazy running left an Epic Rock for us to find. They had just done the Ghost Ultra the weekend before. They are running for 11+ hours. Did I mention those running girls are bloody crazy?

The now famous Rock, left by the Crazy Running girls. Keep an eye out for it on trails near you.

I took some photos with an old school camera. (that almost weighed 1kg)

Very well made hut. Equipped inside with gas and cooking stuff. BYO food.

Part One done and a few extra Kms on the belt. The hard part is soon to come.

PART TWO

Leaving the Ghost Lake Hut, dropped into a small valley (by the Lake) which then gave you a climb out. (or push out)

The switch backs gave you three riding options. 1. walk and live 2. ride, possibly lose control and likely die 3. or do what Doug did (Notice he is no where to be seen and it didn’t kill him)

Such epic scenery to be seen. Here is a quick pic

About 32kms in. After coming off the Ghost Lake switchbacks and through some wicked forest, we stop to stand on an actual Helipad, taking photos. Soon we’ll be grinding up to the Ridgeline.

The Skyline Ridge. Not much to see, lots of clouds.

Coming down the Ridgeline, 99.99% of this section was walking.

Skyline Steps, which takes us to Stern Valley.

MORE STEPS! Now take your bikes down them.

After the Steps, we started a very long downhill into Stern Valley. The ride was very Epic, and it must have gone on for a good number of Kms through the Forrest. Really cool